Dukana is bringing the flavour of the Levant to Laurier
With a bit of old world magic, this ineffable little sandwich shop is feeding the body, mind, and spirit.
If it wasn’t for the portrait of their endearing mascot hanging proudly above the sidewalk, you may not have even noticed them. But those who do notice, often ask about the goat. “I fell in love with them.” Ali tells me. “They’re super resilient, hardworking and the fact that they could balance themselves on such a steep edge just to get salt… it’s crazy to me.” The cute design is inviting enough to peak the interest of any one walking by but projects the kind of strength that lets you know that Dukana is here to stay.
Sandwiched between the local Frites Alors! and neighbourhood darling, Café Méchants Pinsons, this little canteen is looking to infuse the Laurier community with a fresh take on traditional Lebanese cuisine.
Bringing the Levant to Laurier Beyond their widely celebrated dishes, Lebanon also has a rich tradition of written language. In Arabic, you can add na to the end of a word to convey a sense of intimacy. Dukana takes this concept to the humble shop or dukan to bring us something a little more familial. Started by two Omnivore veterans, Lara and Ali are looking to feed Laurier the kinds of flavours that may be new to the neighbourhood but certainly not to them. “We’re still figuring it out, but at the base we wanted to sell products from back home in Lebanon and the Arab world that we also use in our kitchen.” Ali says. And from the poster of Fairouz on the wall to the cupboards full of pickled vegetables and a CRT TV playing classic movies, Dukana feels less like the restaurant you go out to every once in a while and more like the home kitchen you come back to every day.
The Familiar Flavours From their creamy tahini, to powerful aromatics like garlic and cardamom, Dukana makes good use of Lebanese culinary staples. This fusion of new and old is nowhere more evident than in their best selling sandwich, the eponymous Le Dukana. Like all great sandwiches, getting the bread right is fundamental so Le Dukana starts off strong with batbot, the light and fluffy roll hailing all the way from Morocco. It’s then stuffed with a generous heap of shredded chicken taouk and topped with plenty of pickles for that all important crunch. Last but certainly not least comes a drizzle of their delicious garlic sauce, toum. It’s a combination of taste and texture so well balanced even Goldilocks would have a hard time faulting.
Developing hard hitting classics is what Lara and Ali do best but the pair also needed space to grow. “We started with small menu, but we also kept space for being creative, adding new items down the line, and just letting things transform.” Ali explains. And things are certainly transforming; besides their world-class sandwiches and salads, Dukana has also been experimenting with a hearty lentil soup. It’s a dish that comes with a warmth that reminds you that what your really yearning for this winter is home.
It takes a village
Ali was born in the town of Bekka, Lebanon. It’s a tiny village of around 2000 people, halfway between Beirut and Damascus. It’s a place where everyone knows their neighbour and the only new face you’ll find is on a baby. When Ali and his father, Faycal, first returned to Bekka after being away for 15 years, they went to visit their longtime butcher. When the two entered the shop, the butcher recognized Faycal immediately, dropped everything he was doing, and gave him a hug. In a community this tightly knit, you’ll never be forgotten, no matter how long you’ve been gone. It’s this kind of bond that Ali can’t help but build with his customers. If he’s not working away over a hot stove, he’s at the cash, chatting about life and making sure that your experience at Dukana gives you a reason to come back, no matter how long it takes.